A Travellerspoint blog

Greece

Day 40, Naxos to Berlin

overcast 25 °C

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We spent most of the day in transit. Ferry for 6.5 hours. We ate gyros in Athens and frappucinos from starbucks, they were having a promotion. We took the train to the airport, our plane left at 8:45. Everything went smoothly until I basically had a panic attack when our shuttle didn’t show. Turns out he was 45 minutes late. We were starved and in a remote place somewhere in Berlin, with no other food than that we ate. It will remain unnamed. Sleep was welcomed.

Posted by s-a 12:32 Archived in Greece Comments (3)

Day 39, Naxos

semi-overcast 22 °C

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The day started off well. We knew well enough to bring a towel to dry off a wet seat, our rain coats to keep us dry AND our bathing suits for potential tanning. We also brought water and two maps. See, we learn from our mistakes. We went to a place with a sign outside that said “1 euro all coffees” We ordered two coffees (instant of course) and planned our attack. When we left to pay the owner charged us 3 euros. We weren’t in the mood for any confrontation so we paid and left. I guess maybe there was fine print in greek that said “50% surcharge for tourists.” We headed north out of town. Up into the hills.
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It was a long drive, steep inclines and declines, sharp corners and magnificent views. I felt safe on the ATV though, because I knew Shane would be more careful driving it than he would be in a car. We stopped once for gas and another time at the Church of Drosiani, which I read about once we got home. It’s a very old church with frescos on the ceiling dating back from the 3rd and 4th centuries. In any other country there would have been signs telling the history, and a guide to show you along, but nothing of the sort in Greece, it seems to be commonplace to have ridiculously old buildings all around. The church was a popular place, with locals walking the paths up and down to Moni, a tiny little town built into the hillside. From the look of it there couldn’t have been more than 100 people living there. There were geckos galore (Shane was in heaven) and the wildflowers were in full bloom (they are everywhere, the colours are amazing all over the landscape) and the olive grove was very pretty.
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Olive trees and wildflowers in a multitude of colours are in abundance all over Greece. We’ve learned what an olive tree looks like from sight. There are these yellow bushes that prosper in the landscape here, you’ll see them covering everything. It just so happens that they smell A-MAZ-ING! You could say the scent we associate with Greece is the smell of these flowers, they perfumed our drive. We headed from the interior towards the town of Apollon on the Northeastern coast, but along the way we passed Sifnos(?) where for a brief moment I could see both sides of the island, from ocean to ocean, at once.
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We stopped at Apollon for a much needed break and some lunch. We wandered the very small town for a few minutes, opting for a restaurant away from the super touristy ones along the water. It still was by the water, but we were the only patrons. I ordered a salt cod dish that came with a garlic sauce. Garlic sauce that was very strong and SOOOO good! We asked him what it was. Minced garlic, fresh bread soaked in water, garlic vinegar, olive oil and salt. We will be making this for sure! When Shane ordered the sausage dish the guy said to us “it’s going to be a while, I have to make it” Of course this made us very excited. A few minutes later we saw an old lady, she must have been in her late 70s or early 80s come downstairs, walk into the restaurant and put on an apron. The waiter (owner) fired up the grill. The older woman took off her apron and went back upstairs. The waiter brought out our meal. The sausage was even better than the day before! We left nice and full, with enough garlic on our breaths to slay a vampire.
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We took the coastal road towards Hora (where we are staying) stopping once at Ayia Tower, where my best research can only tell me was a bombed out tower from the war. And once again when we spotted a large amount of beehives, obviously making the amazing Naxos honey.
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When we got back into town we stopped at a grocery store where I bought some honey (in a tin so it can’t break) and continued along to Plaka beach from some sun tanning. The sun stayed out for all of 25 minutes before the clouds rolled in and the temperature plummeted. We gave up and rolled home. After showers to get rid of all the sand (it was windy on the beach) we drove the ATV back to the shop and walked to dinner. We ate at the same grill house as last night and had an even better dinner, if that was possible! A roasted chicken, those amazing roasted Naxos potatoes, greek salad, and a soft salty cheese I don’t know the name of. The place has only a Greek name from the outside, but in the letters that look closest in English I see, XAEANOTABEPNA. You (when you go) need to look for the letters in the Greek equivalent.
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We walked home and packed, preparing for the day to come.

Posted by s-a 09:40 Archived in Greece Tagged naxos Comments (5)

Day 38, Naxos

storm 22 °C

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The day was very bright and sunny as we ate our breakfast on the patio. We chatted about our plans for the day. We were going to the beach. Our swim suits were on and our towels packed. We found the ATV and left for some coffee. We filled up the tank with gas and took off down the road. We went straight to the beach and then rode the dirt roads as close to the sea as possible. We saw beautiful beaches but we kept on going, we wanted to see what it was like at the end. We rode all the way down to Agiassos, the furtherest south you can get. The beaches there were not very nice and a storm was brewing. We didn’t even take pictures, the place gave us an eerie feeling. Most of the towns we drive through are very small, so small that when we see someone we notice. In this town, like most, there was no one around. The clouds were an ominous grey and the wind was picking up, we turned around quick to race the storm.
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Cracks of lightening flashed as we sped (safely of course, mom) down dirt roads, flying through potholes and bouncing over rocks. Our goal was to get to Vigla where we would stop and have lunch. We made it just as it started to rain. The restaurant where we dined had only a thatched roof, so we still got a little wet. We ate very well! I finally had my spanakopita, which was so much better than I’ll ever be able to make it, and stuffed tomatoes, loaded with onions, rice and spices. Shane had the best sausage he claims he’s eaten, and I’d agree that it was very good. Service here is incredibly slow (maybe only slow because of what I’m used to) and to get anything here you have to ask. They come to your table exactly twice, once about 10 minutes after you sit down, to grab an order and once to bring that entire order all at once. If you want anything else (including the bill) you need to be very obvious that you are flagging them down, or they will (pretend?) not see you. That said service is very nice, and the people seem to enjoy having us there.
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It was still dark when we finished eating, but our only plans for this once sunny day had been to suntan, so we said a little prayer and climbed into the rocks. We found a little cove with enough room for two and laid down our mats. For about 5 minutes the sun came and then, in big, fat, heavy drops of (very cold!) water the skies opened. We tried to hold out, we hoped it would pass. We got wetter and wetter. Shane noticed something in the bushes 8 feet from us. It was a little white dog. Creepy? I think so. It wanted nothing to do with us, and it had clearly been there for a while. So we left it, climbed back over the rocks and rode to Plaka beach.
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our beach
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From the road I couldn’t see the beach but we knew it was there so we got off and started walking. The beach had coarser sand to it and was difficult to walk down but we made it to a little alcove, a section divided from every other. The sun was coming out and the storm blowing away. We had the beach to ourselves, and we decided that it was then a private beach for us. A nude private beach. The sun here is very intense. When it’s behind a cloud the temperature drops dramatically. When it comes out if feels as though someone is lowering a heat lamp closer and closer to your skin. It is very hot. We tanned for a few minutes and then walked into the water. We worked up the courage to drunk ourselves in the frigid water. 1, 2, 3 - we did it! But now I ask you, why would you? It’s awful! Salt water pains my sinuses. It fills up my ears and stings my eyes and throat. It is a most unpleasant feeling. I did find out that the Mediterranean Sea a higher salt content than the oceans, maybe it’s not as bad at home? I’ve never swam in the Pacific. We repeated the pattern a few more times, tan, swim, tan, swim, before we left. We went back home to wash off the salt that dried white on the little hairs on my arms and legs.
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We walked out along the wave break to watch the sunset but mother nature had other plans and it started to rain once again. We tiptoed our way back across the slippery rocks and headed out on the ATV in search of really good dinner. We stopped in at a grill house outside of the tourist area. It had only one couple dining but a spit roasted whole chickens and huge pieces of pork. We feasted on feta saganaki (best thing ever!), tzatziki, a really good cabbage salad, with only carrots, salt, green cabbage, and fruity delicious olive oil. Simple is best I’m telling you! Then we had two plates of pork from the spit and beautifully roasted fingerling potatoes. We were in heaven.
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It was another wonderful day in Naxos.

Posted by s-a 09:00 Archived in Greece Tagged naxos Comments (2)

Day 37, Naxos

semi-overcast 27 °C

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Our first day in Naxos was a truly amazing day. One of my favorite days in Europe. The day started our very well. It was drizzly and damp when we went for breakfast. We found a restaurant open near the water that served bottomless cups of coffee. I know that doesn’t sounds very amazing but it is, especially on a rainy day. We lingered over breakfast for a few hours enjoying cup after cup. Like I’ve said before, I had no idea how important my two morning cups of coffee were until I couldn’t have them. When you go for coffee here you get an espresso, the largest drink being a cappuccino in Italy. You can sip it if you please, but it will still be gone in 10 minutes. A cup of coffee means you can sip for 30 minutes and chit chat while the world goes by, then someone comes by the fill up the cup again and you linger some more. Shane also had the most Canadian breakfast we’ve enjoyed so far, bacon and eggs with toast. Yum!
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We walked to a grocery store after breakfast (well to the post office first) and bought a few things for breakfast to save money the next two mornings as well as a bottle of wine. Not just any wine though. It was in an unlabeled plastic water bottle. I picked it up and asked Shane “What the heck is it?” I thought it could have been canola oil but it was on the wine shelf. The owner spoke up “It’s my father’s wine, from home.” Yes!!! Of course we spent the 3 euros. It’s actually very good.
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We brought our loot home as most of it went in the refrigerator. Once we were ready to go again, it was around 1130. We walked down the hill to a rental shop and asked to rent an ATV. The (very nice) lady made it so easy! We got an orange, 150cc ATV with a box on the back for 18 euros a day! Because it totally doesn’t fit in the budget I’ve decided it is an ‘I Love You’ present for Shane and he is so excited. He’s like a 10 year old racing go-karts! We filled up the tank with gas (13 euros) and raced out of town. We cruised into the mountains, headed to the interior of the island. We did make a few wrong turns before we figured out what the dead-end signs look like, but after that we did good.
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As the sun came out we drove to Chalki, in the center of the island, which used to be the capital city. We had some very over priced lunch and went for a walk around town, and to see a Byzantine Church. There are thousands of tiny little white churches all over Naxos. I’ve heard this is much the same all over the islands but it’s insane just how many there are. Most of the churches are built in the middle of no where. They are tiny little things that could maybe fit 12 people in them, some are even smaller!
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When we got back to our ATV we noticed it wasn’t in the same spot we left it, it was across the street! Someone had moved it! That kind threw us off, because if you could move it without the key, you could steal it as well. We decided to go back the way of the coast. Shane was feeling quite confident by now around corners and picking up speed. We went down to water at Cape Mikri Vigla. We were blown away by how beautiful the beaches are. And there was only a handful of people on them! We had frappes at a restaurant on the beach and rested for a while. We chose to ride back on the dirt roads along the water, it is so nice to have the wind blowing over you in the scorching hot sun. Little coves peaked their heads out here and there as the sea came and went. We came back into town and found a place to park at the base of our hill. We walked on up to our room.
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We showered and had a glass of wine on our patio before leaving the room at 1930. We walked to the Temple of Apollo, which is only the entryway to a temple that was never built. We talked and watched as the sun went down until the water. It was a stunning sunset, and I’m afraid the pictures don’t show it as true.
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We were in need of dinner and had only 10 euros left in our budget, but we wanted a nice way to end the day. So rather than gyros or pita standing up we went back to the restaurant we were at for breakfast because it had a really great deal. A whole dinner for two, wine included for 17 euros or so. We were happy to pay it of course and had a fantastic dinner. After dinner we headed to the bakery for baklava for me and gelato for Shane. A delicious end to an amazing day.
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Posted by s-a 22:59 Archived in Greece Tagged naxos Comments (6)

Day 36, Naxos

sunny 23 °C

I had written a full post while Shane slept this morning, but the computer messed up and it was lost. I refuse to re-write it. So unless Shane decides to write all you need to know is that we made it to Naxos. And it is awesome!
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Posted by s-a 12:46 Archived in Greece Tagged naxos Comments (7)

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